New Delhi, May 14 -- Now that everyone has said their piece about the absence of galouti kebab, Awadhi biryani and nihari from the Uttar Pradesh government's new One District One Cuisine (ODOC) list, let me tell you what is truly missing: purpose and context.

Any cuisine is defined by a region's geographical and cultural makeup, its terroir, local produce, cooking methods and consumption patterns, and not a quick list of street foods. And for a state as diverse as Uttar Pradesh, spanning Himalayan foothills, rich Terai forest, the Gangetic plain and the Vindhya hills and plateau, the range of cuisines is wide. "A few dishes do not make a 'cuisine'. The list is a gross misrepresentation," says Sangeeta Khanna, author of Culinary Culture o...