New Delhi, June 6 -- A few days before the first wave of covid-19 hit India in 2020, chef Prateek Sadhu posted on Instagram about Mumbai's newest cafe, Subko Roasters and Bakehouse. It piqued my interest, but before I could plan a visit, the lockdown was imposed. It went on my list of places to try after the pandemic, and when I did, there was a mile-long queue. Discovering beans sourced from Dima Hasao in Assam and Garo Hills in Meghalaya was a pleasant surprise as these places were not known for coffee. At their community table, co-founder Rahul Reddy chatted with guests. On one occasion, I heard him say, "Subko is a concept that can be airlifted and placed anywhere in the world."

It didn't take too long for that bold statement to unfo...