New Delhi, Nov. 7 -- The nurse gave me an annoyed look: "You see how busy we are. One nurse has to look after 50-60 patients. Please ask someone else." I was at the gynaecology ward on the seventh floor of Mumbai's K.B. Bhabha Municipal General Hospital, assuming it was the place to enquire about the menopause clinic launched at Maharashtra government hospitals in January.

I spent the next 30 minutes enquiring about the clinic's location and finally found my answer in the casualty ward. I was told to visit the gynaec out-patient department at 8am the next day. The following morning found me in a clean, nearly empty waiting room that smelt faintly of phenyl. Near the entrance was a large poster in Marathi announcing the Rjonivrutti (Marat...