New Delhi, July 26 -- Crunchy, creamy and caramelised, the Mawa Khaja at Papa's, Mumbai, made with Norwegian-style cheese and caviar, is a delightful take on the traditional Indian sweet. Here, the deep-fried, flaky pastry that originated in the Magadh region of Bihar is reinterpreted into a small bite at the beginning of a 14-course fine-dining meal. It is one of three snacks-the others being a take on a laddoo with foie gras and quince, and a spin on the Goan bebinca with celeriac, black truffle and dates-served in the opening course of an inventive meal from the mind of chef Hussain Shahzad and his team.

Growing up in a Bohri household, Shahzad was raised with the idea of starting a meal with something sweet. For diners in Bandra, he ...