This way to Turkman Gate... 'flyover'
India, Sept. 19 -- A crane stands in front of Old Delhi's Turkman Gate, its metallic yellow body cutting across the old red sandstone monument. Beside the crane, a man in white kurta-pajama is sitting atop a low block with knees drawn up. Above him, a stretch of concrete roadway ends in mid-air.
The weekly "This way to" series usually visits an old Old Delhi street or place, asks how it got its name, and watches how people live in it today. For the first time, its subject is so new that it is still being built. "It's a flyover," says a labourer in a yellow helmet. Three men playing ludo inside a parked auto rickshaw say the "flyover" will go straight to New Delhi railway station. The construction is in fact part of the larger redevelopment of the New Delhi railway station.
The gateway takes its name from the Sufi saint Hazrat Shah Turkman Bayabani, whose shrine lies nearby. In Mughal times, people passed through the gateway to enter or leave the Walled City. At night, its wooden doors would close, manned by armed guards holding flaming torches.
The gateway's wooden doors are long gone. Today, the grilled entrance usually remains locked, and the locality's idle men sit outside on the low platform, gossiping or whiling away the hours by patting stray dogs. Looking at the construction underway, it is hard to picture these gatherings once traffic begins to pass overhead. The view from farther away will change too.
Turkman Gate is one of the few surviving gateways in the stone wall that originally enclosed the Walled City. Until recently, someone arriving from the broad roads outside could see it clearly across the traffic, as an entrance to Old Delhi. Sure, the Metro made inroads into the Walled City years ago, but its trains run underground. Above ground, the view remained much as it was. The finished road will disrupt the status quo.
This evening, in front of Turkman Gate, a few construction labourers in orange helmets and fluorescent vests are at work by a temporary barricade. On the other side, the pinched road is choked with buses, cars, autos, bikes, scooters, e-rickshaws, mules, and pedestrians. An ambulance siren cuts through the noise.
At rush hours like this one, Turkman Gate gets super-chaotic. The construction has made it worse. The new road infrastructure may make the crossing easier. After it is complete, one day, a car will pass along the elevated road. Someone inside may bother to glance towards the gateway, and the old city beyond. Or may not....
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