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Delhiwale: Did Gurugram come first or Instagram?

India, Aug. 17 -- Gurgaon, the Millennium City of corporate complexes and residential towers, looks so vertical that it seems to have no past. Even its newer name, Gurugram, sounds too modern, rhyming... Read More


Only a few of us champions are left, the rest are out

India, Aug. 15 -- At 79, Pushpa Singh is playing. One rainy evening, a table at her apartment complex in Ghaziabad is at the centre of a koat pees, or court piece, tournament. A newspaper is spread ac... Read More


This way to 15 August

India, Aug. 15 -- The Jama Masjid minarets rise into a cloudy August sky, a lone kite hovers near them, and tricolour flags sway in the damp monsoon breeze above an adjacent rooftop. It is a classic 1... Read More


Delhiwale: This way to 15 August

India, Aug. 14 -- The Jama Masjid minarets rise into a cloudy August sky, a lone kite hovers near them, and tricolour flags sway in the damp monsoon breeze above an adjacent rooftop. It is a classic 1... Read More


Pushpa Singh: Only a few of us champions are left, the rest are out

India, Aug. 14 -- At 79, Pushpa Singh is playing. One rainy evening, a table at her apartment complex in Ghaziabad is at the centre of a koat pees, or court piece, tournament. A newspaper is spread ac... Read More


Pushpa Singh: 'Only a few of us champions are left, the rest are out'

India, Aug. 14 -- At 79, Pushpa Singh is playing. One rainy evening, a table at her apartment complex in Ghaziabad is at the centre of a koat pees, or court piece, tournament. A newspaper is spread ac... Read More


Rain a la anarsa

India, Aug. 14 -- A heap of small spheres is piled atop a metal tray, each coated with sesame seeds. The white seeds cover the caramel-coloured surfaces so densely that the spheres look almost like ti... Read More


Delhiwale: Scent of a scoop

India, Aug. 12 -- Why is the Press Club of India's most prominent portrait that of a foreigner? It hangs above the club's stately wooden staircase, overlooking the mid-landing. In the black-and-white... Read More


Scent of a scoop

India, Aug. 12 -- Why is the Press Club of India's most prominent portrait that of a foreigner? It hangs above the club's stately wooden staircase, overlooking the mid-landing. In the black-and-white ... Read More


Delhiwale: No bargaining with his Middlemarch

India, Aug. 11 -- Many decades ago, in the hill town of Nainital, a second-hand book dealer called Dana Mian walked the hills with a coolie carrying a steel trunk filled with books on his head. Decade... Read More