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New sights from the old site

India, Nov. 5 -- Dilli is changing furiously. From a road bridge beside New Delhi railway station, you can look down and see how deep the change goes. This sunny, smoggy afternoon, the footpath along ... Read More


Delhiwale: Beneath his calm exterior

India, Nov. 4 -- A longtime staffer at Ghalib Academy, a literary institution in Central Delhi, Aslam is a very quiet man. Yet his presence is strongly felt, perhaps because of the calm he exudes even... Read More


Beneath his calm exterior

India, Nov. 4 -- A longtime staffer at Ghalib Academy, a literary institution in Central Delhi, Aslam is a very quiet man. Yet his presence is strongly felt, perhaps because of the calm he exudes even... Read More


Sidney Sheldon on the Violet Line

India, Nov. 3 -- Something suspicious is going on aboard a train coach on the Delhi Metro Violet Line, just as it leaves the JLN Stadium station. Almost everybody has a mobile out. So far, so normal. ... Read More


Delhiwale: This way to Gali Shakeel Artist

India, Oct. 31 -- This is Gali Shakeel Artist, just off Old Delhi's Urdu Bazar. Dear reader, forgive the misleading introduction. The severely weathered marker for the street beside the tea stall cal... Read More


Contemporary art in Iraq, and other improbabilities

India, Oct. 30 -- Pity the poor rich. They too apparently deserve sympathy. Delhi's Sunday Book Bazar has a book devoted to them. "Pity the Poor Rich" once surfaced at this capital institution of disc... Read More


Inside a boys' hostel

India, Oct. 29 -- Fireplaces inside the rooms. Outside, facing balconies look out over serene lawns adorned with towering palm trees. This is Gwyer Hall, Delhi University's oldest hostel for men. A bo... Read More


Delhiwale: Taste of Chawri

India, Oct. 27 -- The unwieldy e-rickshaws are stuck beside one another. A handcart loaded with a large parcel is caught between them. Beside his fruit cart, the vendor rests his chin on folded arms. ... Read More


Their jhappi of art

India, Oct. 26 -- The museum has a double bed. A cushiony gaontakiyan lies across it. On the walls are photographs by Nony Singh. This evening, three guests arrive at Nony's Vasant Vihar apartment. He... Read More


Delhiwale: Is that a peepal or pilkhan

India, Oct. 23 -- A landmark Delhi book clocks an anniversary year A book on Delhi need not always have a monument on every other page. Or paya-nihari, or chhole bhathure, for that matter. A book mig... Read More