Millennium City's other towers
India, Aug. 25 -- Office towers cram its sprawling sectors, malls serve as shrines to shopping. Materialism maketh Gurugram. But this is a tired cliche about the Millennium City. Gurugram has another side, consecrated by spiritualism. Across the city are another sort of towers-topping the temples. Here is a survey of a few of Gurugram's many significant as well as less-know temples, each having been visited at a different time.
Temples to Ram, Hanuman, Shiva and Durga are common, but a Sadar Bazar temple dedicated to a 15th-century poet-saint is unusual. The idol of Kabir sits in a chamber of white tiles and iron grilles. Yellow flowers are painted above him, beside a yellow sun with a face: eyes, lips and a nose. Elsewhere in the temple is one more idol of Kabir, much larger, garlanded one afternoon with plastic marigolds. A wall is laid with marble slabs inscribed with the names of temple's many donors-Shree Roopchand Advocate gave 75,000 rupees, Srimati Champa Devi gave 2,121 rupees.
Within a walkable distance is Radha Krishna Mandir. The temple stands in a aangan, or courtyard, ringed with houses. The walls have taaks, recessed niches once common in hyperlocal architecture. The shrine has several deities, with a velvet crib for baby Krishna. A gallery runs around the central chamber. One afternoon, the aangan was filled with cozy domestic sounds coming from surrounding houses: a pressure cooker ceeti, a woman's scolding voice, nalka water falling into a plastic bucket. Elsewhere in Sadar Bazar, Guru Ravidas Temple is distinguished with a sprawling aangan. Fallen leaves lie on the floor. A trimmed peepal rises through the roof, its trunk wound with sacred red kalava threads. The tree shelters the black idol of Shani Devta.
In Sector 14, a corridor runs around the shrine at Shree Krishna Mandir. Daylight passes through its jaalis, leaving the patterns of the jali pores on the floor. Outside in the unusually large aangan stands a neem. Bani Mandir stands atop a hill. The climb ends on a little plateau with several shrines. Below lies Ghata village, with its houses, courtyards, lanes and buffaloes. Beyond it lurks the rampart-like imagery of Gurugram's business towers shimmering in the city haze.
At Parshvanath Digambar Jain Temple in Rakabpura, glass tiles adorn the ceiling, with a chandelier at the centre. Paintings on wall depict scenes from Jainism. The meditation chamber downstairs mostly remains serenely silent.
Long before people from across India and abroad began arriving to Gurugram for jobs, pilgrims would come to the town with their sick children. They still come, to be blessed at the temple of Sheetla Mata, the goddess traditionally believed to cure fevers, including small pox.
PS: Photo shows the spires of Ram Mandir in Gurugram's Mianwali Colony....
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