India, Aug. 22 -- Across urban India, the simple roti, a staple for everyone, is changing in small ways. This change isn't loud or driven by health trends; it reflects how Indian home cooks have always adapted, asking whether the methods that worked in the past still work today and whether there are better options.

Many households are turning to a different type of flour: Khapli. This flour comes from an ancient variety of Emmer wheat, with roots in Karnataka and Maharashtra. Khapli atta has more fiber and protein than modern wheat and contains less gluten, though it is not gluten-free.

During the Green Revolution, Khapli largely disappeared from urban kitchens because modern wheat was cheaper and easier to process. Now, it is making a ...