India, April 11 -- One long, walled alley is painted blue; another, green; a third is divided between grey and white. In all of them, the paint curls and flakes from the walls. Katra Nizam ul Mulk sits in the heart of Old Delhi, yet feels spiritually removed from it. Consider its setting in Old Delhi's street layout: here stands the iconic Jama Masjid. Facing it runs the main road of Urdu Bazar, choked daily with nightmarish traffic, so noisy, so chaotic that no peace survives near it. Along its edge lies a narrow alley, easy to miss and easy to dismiss. This is Katra Nizam ul Mulk. On steeping into the lane, it first tapers, then splits into a network of lanes, all part of the same katra-a term that traditionally refers to a neighbourhood ...