India, May 30 -- The informally named Gali Shyam Bhawan is very short. The roofed lane begins and ends as a passage, leading inward from the light and noise of Daryaganj in Old Delhi. As it stretches ahead, the lane darkens. The lane's entrance is marked by a stall selling religious posters. This blinding afternoon, Sonu's display bears images of Ram Darbar, Radha Krishna and Shivji Bhagwan. Further in, where the lane grows dim and feels cut off from the rest of the city, stands its defining landmark, marked only by a tiny, almost invisible scrawl of blue ink on the chipped wall: "tea wala." Upender's tea stall is richly detailed. The place is crammed with a stove, a giant kettle, a smaller kettle, a thermos, plus jars of chai-related suppl...