India, Oct. 17 -- All the doors on both sides of the lane are shut. A couple have cobwebs around their locks and latches, suggesting they haven't been touched for a long time. This pre-dawn morning, only cats are moving about Old Delhi's Gali Sakko Wali. Now, a man in grey kurta pajamas is entering from Matia Mahal Bazar, into which the dead-end lane opens. Returning from morning prayers at a nearby mosque, he introduces himself as Farooq Bhai. He is a bawarchi, a cook. Many residents here are bawarchis, he says. Gali Sakko Wali is part of our weekly exploration of Old Delhi's streets, their pasts and present. The lane's name recalls the sakko (or sakke) wale, the traditional water carriers who drew water from wells, poured it into goatskin...