India, Aug. 29 -- Poetry in some form is everywhere in Gali Qasim Jan. Not the poetry of Mirza Ghalib, who spent his last years on this Old Delhi street, but the poetry of shop names. De Cut Salon. Tip Top Gents Parlour. Grocers Gallery. Rafaa Cafe. Tamanna Guest House. The names hang above the cramped street on boards in English, Hindi and Urdu. Electric wires hang higher. Monkeys travel across shop banners. Much of the street's old architecture is hidden behind signboards. Above Al Faiz Bakery rises a yellow facade. Projecting wooden beams support the upper floor, where tall wooden screens run along the street-facing front. Below, the overhang rests on a succession of curved brackets. A large blue ice-cream board covers much of the elegan...