India, June 20 -- Dug-du-gi. Speak it aloud. The tongue rocks back and forth across the mouth before landing on the final gi. So musical, this word dugdugi. It recalls the rattle of the small hand drum called. dugdugi.! In older times, street hawkers would walk through neighbourhoods shaking their dugdugi to gain attention. The dug-dugi sound would travel down the lanes, reaching people sitting-sleeping indoors, drawing them to doors and windows. This afternoon, no such dugdugi sound is discernible in Gali Dugdugi Shah Kallan, an Old Delhi street near Turkman Gate Bazar. Instead, the afternoon air is soothingly silent, carrying only the steady drone of air conditioners, punctuated by infrequent ceetis of pressure cookers. It is one o'clock,...