India, Aug. 1 -- The lanes pause at Gadhe Walon ka Chowk. One lane runs towards Chitli Qabar. Another slips beneath Turkman Gate and out of the Walled City. A third heads towards Chawri Bazar. The fourth goes to Teliyon ka Phatak, making this a proper chowk. Overhead, a huge banyan tree leans from one building to another. Its thick branches thread through a maze of cables. Beneath the tree stand Shahji Doodh Bhandar, Bismillah Bakery and Standard Chicken Point. Around them crowd meat shops, stationery stores and photocopy kiosks. Scooters squeeze past battery rickshaws. Men on motorcycles stare at their screens. Dogs sleep through the commotion. Cats are immobile. Citizen Moinuddin, who runs a tea stall here, says the name Gadhe Walon ka Ch...