India, Sept. 22 -- The traffic has stopped moving on Old Delhi's Urdu Bazar road. Truth be told, it scarcely moves on any evening, squeezed between food stalls, pedestrians, autos, e-rickshaws, scooters and cars. But this Sunday evening, a huge red gaadi is standing in the middle of the road, making the traffic jam worse. It is a fire brigade vehicle. But there is no fire. Curious people are gathered around the vehicle anyway, looking up, though some seem unsure what they are watching. Three firemen are standing on top of the vehicle. One is in khaki, the others in black. Together they are holding a long pole that rises past cables and disappears into the branches of a roadside peepal. The tree is too leafy to see what is happening so high ...