India, Nov. 11 -- Say Murano and you think of glass. Say Morena and someone might ask how much you want. Murano is in Italy, and Morena. well, it certainly is not in Delhi. It is in Madhya Pradesh, some hours from Delhi, in the Chambal valley, once known for its dacoits. And yet, Morena turns up in our neighbourhood bazars, around Diwali that is. Look for the banners that say "Morena." Or see this photo of Morena Gajak Bhandar, with its yellow-and-red banner, snapped this afternoon. Gajak is a winter sweet, believed to warm the body. Morena janpad is so strongly identified with gajak that Morena Gajak even has an official sarkari tag. It is entry No. 681 in India's Geographical Indications Registry, registered in the name of the Morena Gaja...