India, Sept. 12 -- Old Delhi's Badshah Halwai, aka Shamman Sweets, sits on Ballimaran's main market road, the counter crowded with food photos. Fittingly, directly across the road, the arched gateway of Punjabi Phatak opens into what feels like Ballimaran's food pantry. For that alley is lined with scores and scores of eateries.

Yazdaan Roti Wale turns out rotis. At Shakeel Parathe Wale, parathas sizzle on the tawa beside crates of eggs. Flyers at Abid Breakfast announce khasta kachori and dal wali kachori. Zaiqa Hotel offers bade ka qorma and bade ka keema. Angeethi promises chicken lollipop. A taped notice inside settles a sensitive matter: extra gravy costs 20 rupees.

One of these eateries has been in Punjabi Phatak long enough to co...