India, July 3 -- The street is in constant motion this afternoon. Labourers are weaving through the cramped way bearing hefty parcels on their backs. Delivery boys hurry on, balancing glasses of chai on round rusting metal trays. A man in old-fashioned safari suit goes past carrying a stack of old-fashioned file folders. A few dogs are sitting motionless through the commotion, looking carefree.

Kucha Dayaram is one of the many narrow lanes branching off the choked spine of Chawri Bazar. Shops spill onto the lane. Their signboards advertise hardware, aluminium, sanitary goods, GI strips, springs, and display fittings. None offers a clue about the Dayaram of Kucha Dayaram. Though one signboard gives the street's name as the slightly longer...