India, Aug. 5 -- The monument is very old, but the sight is very new. The tea stall outside the walls of Jama Masjid in Old Delhi appeared only recently. Here the historic quarter, with all its clutter and chaos, has arranged itself into a picturesque frame. Nothing in the scene appears arranged, yet everything is in its place. So Purani Dilli! The hand-painted signboard announces Haider Tea Stall in Hindi beneath the drawing of a steaming kettle. Above the stall spreads a dense canopy of pink bougainvilleas that almost hides the roof. The southern minaret of Jama Masjid rises behind the flowers. Beside the bougainvillea, the bare branches of a dead tree reach into the sky. The stall's signboard illustration carries the familiar grace assoc...