Srinagar, Aug. 30 -- By Jamsheed Rasool

It was nearing the end of winter in Kashmir.

A thick, grimy fog, black and white tinged with grey, hung over Srinagar much of the day. Morning visibility was bad, cleared up a bit with a dull sun in the afternoon, before darkness descended again on the city.

Perched on the leafless branches of poplars and sycamore trees, the pigeons, overfed in summers, hopefully waited for the kind-hearted to broadcast grains on the stony parapets of mosques and shrines.

Panting heavily, the most resolute of the faithful populace climbed the steep, frosted stairs of Makhdum Sahab shrine, loudly seeking blessings, cribbing why their toil was left unwaged.

Occasionally, a Casper, with a grimacing mural of a sold...