Srinagar, June 18 -- The growing line of tourist cabs on Srinagar roads has created a powerful impression. The conclusion seems obvious. If tourism is booming, cab operators must be thriving.

That assumption falls apart the moment one speaks to the people behind the wheel.

Kashmir's current tourism economy looks healthy. Hotels are filling up, restaurants are seeing brisk business, and tourist destinations are crowded again. The sight of hundreds of taxis ferrying visitors from one attraction to another has strengthened the belief that transporters have emerged as one of the biggest beneficiaries of the tourism revival.

The reality is far less glamorous.

Many cab operators say that despite the rise in tourist arrivals, daily hiring ra...