Srinagar, Sept. 3 -- By Uzma Qadir Mir

There is a strange homesickness that follows you out of Kashmir.

I have felt it in Delhi on ordinary evenings, when traffic has exhausted me and the city seems to have little patience for where I come from.

Sometimes it comes through a photograph of the Jhelum or a glimpse of the mountains on my phone. At other times, it is simply the memory of my mother calling me for dinner.

Then I found Parsa's in Lajpat Nagar.

I walked in looking for food and found something harder to name. The place gave me a small version of Kashmir at a time when I was living far from it.

That is the real significance of this restaurant.

Its success lies less in selling Kashmiri cuisine than in understanding what Kashmi...