New Delhi, July 2 -- In 2001, during peacetime, for two full days, a Pakistani journalist wandered the bustling lanes of Delhi, searching for Shradhanand Marg. Locals shrugged, rickshaw drivers feigned ignorance. Even seasoned city dwellers drew a blank.

Then, in a whisper, the journalist quietly confessed to a passerby what he was really looking for - a red-light area. Guidebooks listed Shradhanand Marg as one.

"Arrey haan (Oh, yes!), GB Road," someone replied instantly.

Within minutes, a cycle-rickshaw was taking him toward Ajmeri Gate and even guided him to the brothels. The journalist realised that people didn't know that the name of GB Road had been changed to Swami Shradhanand Marg.

The state had changed the signboards in 1996, ...