New Delhi, Aug. 31 -- At mid-morning in early March, the air has a pronounced nip, intensified by a stiff breeze. It is bright but the sun imparts no heat. Inside the ancient Alaverdi Monastery, in the heart of Georgia's Kakheti region, the stone walls are dark and brooding, and the air is still but the cold is much worse. Parts of the 11th century cathedral, standing amidst open flatlands stretching towards hills, are cordoned off for renovation and covered in scaffolding, so its true extent is hidden. Much of its interiors are off-limits to visitors since the cathedral's origins date back to the 6th century and portions are fragile.

But even from the outside, it is stunning. Faded murals with Biblical scenes, mostly in earth tones, sur...