New Delhi, Oct. 3 -- Even in mid-October, early mornings in Honnavar, on the Karnataka coast, are barely cool and the humidity is just about tolerable. Just outside town, as the boat silently pushes off and glides on the waters of the river Sharavathi, inland from the sea, a light breeze offers respite. It is bright even though the sun is just rising behind us. An occasional boat glides by.

On either side, the banks are lined with tall coconut trees, but the vegetation changes a few minutes in, as the riverscape makes way for mangroves. The greenery is thicker, wild and narrow channels cut through at regular intervals. As the boat turns into one of the narrow channels, the change is instant. The light dims substantially as it seeps throu...