New Delhi, April 19 -- I spent the weekend tasting the season's teas, and feel I've barely scratched the surface. The teas are showing none of the stress their planters face running an estate. Someone told me recently-in a coffee conversation-that a little stress on the plant is not a bad thing. Perhaps tea too has responded to its own pressures by giving its very best. This year's collection certainly feels that way.

I started with Nilgiris winter frost tea from Havukal, which arrives in February in a short harvest window. I've written about this tea before, but it remains so untapped. It brews a clean, richly flavourful cup that anyone who enjoys a high-grown tea should try for themselves.

Another outstanding tea was from Kangra, whic...