New Delhi, June 13 -- Few foods are as closely tied to Bangladesh as hilsa or ilish, the prized silver fish that enjoys a revered place in Bengali cuisine and culture and is now widely popular as fine regional cuisine. Yet, official data shows Myanmar has displaced Bangladesh as India's top source of imported hilsa. Some experts, however, see a twist in the tale-with the trend partly reflecting Bangladeshi-origin fish reaching the Indian plate through Myanmar.

Trade and strategic experts attribute Bangladesh's declining share partly to its periodic export restrictions to ensure domestic availability and prices. Myanmar, meanwhile, has helped bridge the supply gaps.

According to commerce ministry data, Myanmar accounted for nearly 98% of...