New Delhi, July 23 -- In Morocco, a piece of bread is not an accompaniment to the meal-it is the meal. And breakfast is not one single dish-it is a cluster of dishes that leave you spoiled for choice.

On a riad terrace or in a tiled courtyard, mornings begin with fresh juice, fruits, perhaps a small plate of olives, and a bowl of honey. The breads start to appear soon after.

It starts with khobz, round and dense, a ubiquitous bread made for tearing and scooping. Then comes msemen, which is folded into flaky squares, sometimes stuffed with spinach, herbs and cheese, and oily in the best possible way. There's also baghrir, a soft and pale pancake-like bread, with a surface covered in tiny holes. Lastly, there's harcha, a rough and crumbly...