New Delhi, June 6 -- During one of my travels abroad to cook with other chefs, the long hours didn't leave me much time to dine around, so I ate in the immediate area. This experience encapsulated not only the state of Indian food today, but also its position versus other globally renowned cuisines outside of their home countries.

Most restaurants felt self-assured with expansive dining rooms and swarms of staff. The food tasted fresh with personality and perspective. A Greek restaurant was a palatial hive of activity - enormous floor space with possibly twenty people on staff. The adjacent Italian restaurant was even larger, with about thirty staff.

Our experience with the Indian restaurants was mixed. This saddens me, as there is noth...