New Delhi, March 7 -- My interest in Sindhi cuisine began by accident. Last year, in the middle of an otherwise ordinary exchange, my father mentioned that our family traced its roots to Sukkur-also known as Sakhar-a historic city on the western bank of the Indus River in Sindh, now in Pakistan.

Until then, Sindhi identity had existed in my life more as a backdrop than something I actively explored. It surfaced during festivals and family gatherings, when kadhi simmered on the stove or koki (onion coriander flatbread) crisped on the tawa. Food was something we inherited, not questioned.

That conversation shifted something. As I began reading about Sukkur, I discovered a region shaped by agricultural abundance-green vegetables, mustard g...