New Delhi, Oct. 31 -- Legendary chaat, iconic parathas, and kebabs one would dedicate hymns to. Delhi is widely acknowledged as one of India's best food cities, with street food that delights with each bite. Its food scene was shaped by its history and enriched by the traders, rulers and communities who sought refuge there, and it doesn't disappoint the gourmand. So when this year's list of India's top restaurants was announced earlier this month, with only three of the 50 from the capital, it raised eyebrows and questions. The most pressing one: has Delhi's restaurant scene really become less exciting?

Restaurant award lists are subjective and exclusionary, and they're shaped by much more than talent and merit. Still, some of Delhi's ta...