New Delhi, March 8 -- Walking through my Bengaluru neighbourhood, I was again struck by the number of roasteries and cafes that have come up in recent years. Spotting a tea lounge in its midst, I decided to try it. There was chai but also Darjeeling. As many coffees as teas. Indian snacks but also croissants and cookies. A shelf of assorted books. While the tea and food were good, I just couldn't tell what the space was attempting to fully be.

I wonder if the confusion starts with what we call these spaces-a tea bar, tea room, tea lounge, a salon? It isn't surprising. Tea spaces have always meant different things in different places. In China, the chayuan or chaguan (translates to tea garden), once popular as a rest stop for travellers, ...