KUALA LUMPUR, May 17 -- When life sends me to one of the many watering holes along Changkat Bukit Bintang, whether as an 18-year-old on a tear fresh out of high school, or more recently, struggling financially at a friend's birthday, I always let out a little sigh of resignation.

Resigned, because I know that no matter what transpires over the evening - encounters with drunk tourists or an overeager massage parlour promoter - my dinner will be at best, "just okay".

Not that the area has ever truly held a reputation as a glittery destination for gourmands, but surely, somewhere amongst the countless bars, pubs, sports bars, izakayas, gastrobars - did I mention bars? - there exists a great meal.

Lo and behold, on Jalan Mesui, where not o...