Kuala Lampur, July 5 -- There is something strangely familiar about standing in front of a nasi campur counter.

The stainless-steel trays are neatly arranged in a long row, each one trying its best to persuade you.

Ayam goreng. Sambal sotong. Gulai daging. Ikan bakar. Sayur lemak. Ulam. Sambal belacan. If you arrive close to lunchtime, the food is still warm, the choices still plentiful, and for a brief moment it feels as though you could have everything.

But of course, you cannot. You begin with the rice. Then, plate in hand, you move slowly from one tray to another, adding this, leaving that, changing your mind halfway, before eventually deciding that your plate is full enough.

Only then do you reach the cashier, where the total qui...