KUALA LUMPUR, July 17 -- What comes to mind when one thinks of Taman United?

The horrific peak-hour traffic on Old Klang Road perhaps? Better yet, what comes to mind when one hears of a "social club" in Taman United?

Whatever it is, it probably isn't anything like Soon Heng Social Club.

Located above a tea shop, the restaurant can only really be spotted at night, when its neon sign comes out to play.

The hawk-eyed may also notice Soon Heng's vintage sign above the stairway - acquired from an antique collector in Kajang, it is one of many curated pieces that build out the retro-themed Chinese interior.

Folding screens. String curtains. A slew of old-timey knick-knacks. The whole place feels like both a far cry from and a sly nod to it...