KUALA LUMPUR, March 4 -- With a name like Volcano Curry House, one would expect to tread carefully when ordering the curry mee at this stall inside Restoran Hoi Sum to avoid any violent eruptions, right?

Instead, this Ipoh-style curry mee feels more like a sleeping volcano that sputters a mild heat rather than a fiery one, leaving space for your tongue to savour its fragrance, derived more from ground herbs and spices than from curry powder.

The curry is thick, signalling a heavy use of santan even though it lacks the distinct sweet fragrance.

A touch of evaporated milk also gives the curry a smoother consistency.

On its own, the curry is the hero here but curry mee fanatics know that a standout bowl means every element inside needs t...