KUALA LUMPUR, Sept. 20 -- When I wrote about the surge in bistros opening up in the Klang Valley a few months ago, I could have swapped just about every mention of "bistro" for "steak frites", and the story would've still worked.

In fact, it probably would've covered an even wider range of eateries; such is the portability of the dish that it turns up in all shapes and sizes, from the classic version in all-day bistros to budget-friendly variants in cafes and even loosely inspired renditions in shawarma joints.

Beef, it would seem, is what's for dinner. And KL is mad about steak frites.

But where do you go for something more refined - something fit for a special occasion, like my mother's birthday?

For my money, the most refined steak...