MELAKA, Feb. 26 -- A former colleague of mine always encouraged me to resist convention, at least at mealtimes.

She'd ask me, "Why do we have to have dessert at the end of a meal? Why not at the start?"

I am reminded of this challenge as our bowl of Nyonya cendol arrives at our table.

Most would consider this sweet Peranakan treat a dessert but what's to stop us from enjoying it as an appetiser?

A heavy mound of red beans and pandan strands crown a mound of shaved ice and coconut cream.

The most important element - for us, at any rate - has to be the fragrant and syrupy gula Melaka, dark and heady, threading its way through the bowl.

We share a bowl of this - there is more to come! fret not! - at UES Siew Tin Nyonya Kitchen in Melak...