India, Aug. 18 -- As Love All, the new tennis-inspired campaign for Anita Dongre, finds itself at the centre of a creative controversy involving two young Indian labels, a bigger question is being served up: when does inspiration become imitation, and who gets to score?

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Fashion has always been a game of references. A little bit of archive, a little bit of zeitgeist, a little bit of something you saw three years ago and have convinced yourself you discovered independently at 2 a.m. In fashion, almost everything has a precedent. The trick, supposedly, is in what you do with it. Which is what makes the current conversation around Anita Dongre particularly interesting. Because nobody, at least publicly, is quite saying the wo...