India, Feb. 14 -- Many streets in Old Delhi bear something of their character in their very air. Some streets smell of milky chai from their numerous chai stalls; others of samosas frying in oil, or kebabs on skewers. In the dawn, certain lanes carry the scent of halwa-poori. While every morning from seven to ten, Chitli Qabar Chowk smells of fish, owing to vendor Parvez, who stations his cart at the centre of the crossing. There are also some streets in the historic quarter that are less pleasant, scent wise. But let us confine ourselves to those that are not. Among them, Katra Buddhan Rai street stands out for its striking scent. This afternoon, a tiny portion is smelling of perfume. The source is a small shop toward the far end, where Ha...