India, Oct. 24 -- It is five in the morning. Most shutters are down, but Ansar Store is aglow in the pre-dawn darkness-see photo. The grocery stays open all night, says the young man at the counter. This is Old Delhi's Gali Madrasa Hussain Baksh, a dead-end street opening into Matia Mahal Bazar. Only Chacha Chaiwale's stall is also open this moment. Chacha himself died last year. One of his sons is presently sitting cross-legged beside the stall's coffee machine. It also serves coffee, a rarity among the Walled City's chai establishments. The dispatch is a part of our weekly series exploring both the present and past of Old Delhi streets. At the gali's far end, where it branches left and right, an arched doorway leads to the mosque and madr...