India, July 29 -- The Maharashtra FDA's decision to suspend the FSSAI licence of Poornima restaurant, popular for its Udupi fare, in Mumbai's Fort area has turned what might have been a routine regulatory action into something far more poignant: a moment of collective remembrance for one of South Mumbai's most quietly enduring institutions.

Located in Raja Bahadur Compound, opposite the Bombay House, global headquarters of the Tata Group, and a short walk from the Bombay Stock Exchange and the Bombay High Court, the modest eatery has, for more than six decades in living memory, been woven into the daily rhythms of lawyers, brokers, Tata executives, journalists, artists and theatre practitioners who have inhabited Fort's unique commercial...