India, Sept. 22 -- On our way back to Ambala from Dehradun recently, my wife and I decided to stop at Haridwar. We wanted to visit Har Ki Pauri, take a dip in the Ganga, explore the nearby temples, and attend the evening Ganga 'aarti'. We expected the ceremony to begin around 7pm, but a sudden shift in the weather had brought it forward to 6.30pm. By the time we arrived, the 'aarti' was over.

Disappointed but undeterred, we parked the car and walked towards the ghats. That was when our first concern arose. For a destination drawing pilgrims nationwide, the parking area was poorly maintained. Water had pooled into stagnant slush, the air carried a persistent stench, and vehicles jostled chaotically for space. A simple paved surface would ...