India, April 9 -- Most visitors don't realise this but there are actually two Maldives: Before and After. I like them both, but sometimes I really miss the Before.

Before what? I hear you ask. Well, before the Maldives became one of the world's great luxury destinations. Before the world's millionaires descended on the islands and some of the world's greatest luxury resorts, like the magnificent Cheval Blanc and the elegant Four Seasons LG, became famous. Now, so many new high-priced resorts have opened that even I, who goes to Maldives at least once a year, can no longer keep track.

Why do I miss the Before period?

Well, because it was less crowded, and you had a distinct sense of the Maldives, of the 1192 tiny natural coral islands s...