India, July 10 -- These days, I go to London relatively rarely, so I try and spend the few meals I have in the city at new restaurants just to get a sense of what's happening in the food scene.

My trip last week was no exception. I went to the new MIKO Mei Fair on Curzon Street for delicious Thai food, and I was impressed by what new owner Jeremy King had done with Simpson's in the Strand, one of the city's oldest surviving great restaurants.

But while I was planning my trip, I had a thought: When I do eat Indian in London, I tend to go to the old favourites (anything set up by the Panjabi sisters, Hoppers, Quilon and Jamavar) and rarely try anything unfamiliar. In fact, there are many famous London Indian restaurants that I have never ...