India, Aug. 6 -- The humid August afternoon is settling gently on the yellow walls of Gol Gumbad. Weak sunlight is making its way through the branches of a leafy tree, scattering across the walls. Leaf shadows are trembling in the mild breeze, making the wall seem to breathe. Lodhi Road is rich in centuries-old monuments. Within a short distance stand Humayun's Tomb, Safdarjung's Tomb, and the stone ensemble inside Lodhi Garden. Gol Gumbad, which stands right beside the road, remains the least noticed. Traffic streams past the monument every hour, but hardly anybody slows down to notice its square body and broad dome. This afternoon, the monument compound is open, but the iron gate to the gumbad is locked. The building is, in any case, arch...