Bengaluru, Oct. 10 -- Any restaurant whose name ends in "Upahara" or "Upahar" is expected to be a Udupi-style Darshini with a vintage set-up. You place your order at the counter and collect a token. Then you move to the self-service area and submit your token. You either wait for your food (dosE) or get it quickly (idli, vadE, kesari bath, khara bath, etc.). Then you stand and eat at the steel tables, maybe grab a coffee, and move on with your day.

At least, that was the mental image that came to mind as I approached Santrupthi Upahara. Located in a quiet lane in Basaveshwara Nagar, near Bengaluru Law College, the eatery soon challenged my expectations. As I approached the entrance, things changed. A gentleman was chopping coriander (pre...