India, April 27 -- It might now be a faint trickle running on two emaciated tracks in Kolkata but shortly after Independence, the humble tram held India's then largest metropolis in a vice grip. Since autumn 1947, the tramways corporation - which had not yet passed into Indian hands - was pushing for a fare hike. On June 22, 1953, the corporation notified a one pice (one-sixty-fourth of a rupee) hike in the second-class fare. In a moment of acute food shortage and millions of refugees streaming into Calcutta, the increase - backed by the State - ignited a powder keg of anger.

From July 1, hundreds boarded trams with old fares, organised passengers to carry mounds of change to deny conductors a chance at deducting higher fares, and violen...