India, Sept. 16 -- Kashmir has a very short window when the valley seems to change colour almost overnight. The Chinar trees begin turning golden from late September. By October and November, Srinagar has that unmistakable autumn look that makes you want to stop the car every few minutes. But autumn in Kashmir is not all about pretty trees and crisp mornings. The weather needs some planning too. Days can sit around 18degC to 22degC when the sun is out, while early mornings and nights can drop to around 2degC to 5degC. That means you do not need a suitcase full of winter clothes. You need the right layers.

This is also a good season for a five-day Kashmir trip if you want to keep things fairly simple. I would plan around Srinagar, Gulmarg...