India, March 2 -- Every year during Ramzan, Jama Masjid in Old Delhi is strung with lights. The surrounding lanes glow with lamps and buntings, drawing selfie-seekers in search of the right angle. Across the road, in Matia Mahal Bazar, pavements fill with snack stalls selling sevai and khajla, tied in tight bundles. Carts are stacked with dates from Iraq and Saudi Arabia. Coconut parathas-made only in this month-reappear. "Come late night," seasoned chroniclers of Ramzan advise. The script is familiar, faithfully documented by Instagram reel-makers. Less often suggested: arrive at 5 in the morning. This is Ramzan in a quieter register. For a month, Muslims observe roza, fasting from dawn to dusk. Iftar-the evening meal that breaks the fast-...